Tenacatita

After two nights in Chamela, we motor sailed the 30 nautical miles to Bahia Tenacatita (19 degrees 17.994 minutes north, 104 degrees 50.150 west). This is a large and beautiful bay with several anchorages. We are in the one which provides the best protection from northwesterly swells.

Today we saw two humpback whales within a hundred feet of the boat, a sea turtle at about the same distance, and we were escorted into Tenacatita by dolphins up close and friendly. We have seen many jumping sting rays, but today one jumped so close to Norwegian Steam we feared it might leap aboard. The wildlife viewing gets better and better.

As soon as we anchored, Sally and Amy donned swim suits, leaped off the boat, and swam the third of a mile to the beach. I was left behind to pump up the dinghy and then to row ashore to fetch them and row them back to the boat. We all get our exercise, one way or another.

Tonight Sally is preparing Linguine Primavera.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Whales and Sea Turtles

Yelapa is a Hill Town

Tonight (January 28, 2011), Norwegian Steam is anchored very peacefully in Bahia Chamela (19 degrees 35.09 minutes north, 105 degrees 7.892 minutes west), after an overnight voyage from Banderas Bay.  Last night we anchored in Yelapa, a small indentation in the south side of Banderas,  but found the four foot high swells anything but peaceful and decided to start the 89 nautical mile journey to Chamela immediately.  Yelapa is a fascinating place, and we had intended to stay longer.  According to the excellent Pacific Mexico, A Cruiser's Guidebook, by Breeding and Bansmer, all land is owned collectively in Yelapa based on a grant to a group of indigenous people in the year 1581 by King Phillip II of Spain.  Yelapa has a small beach, with the usual collection pangas (large, high-powered, all-purpose skiffs) and palapa (thatch roofed) restaurants.  What really makes it special, however, is that it is a hill town, with tiny winding streets, mostly too narrow for automobiles, which require goods to be carried by horse and mule.  A creek runs down through the village, and higher up there are two waterfalls.  We viewed one of these on the same day that Sally finally saw a whale.

Whale sightings have now become common-place.  We have seen two distinct species and possibly more.  One type is very long and we think could be fin whales, although a number of other whales have a somewhat similar appearance, including the blue whale.  The other is definitely the humpback.  Today we were very close to a pod of them as they blew and breached.  Later we saw some more of them continually pounding the water with their tails for several minutes.

We have also solved a little mystery involving what seemed to be either the remains of dead seals or some kind of large net float.  Today we saw several up close, and they are neither dead nor inanimate.  They are sea turtles.

We arrived in Chamela about three in the afternoon, and after anchoring, we inflated the dinghy and headed for shore.  Sally and Amy wore bathing suits under their clothing.  I had no intention of swimming but, knowing a dunking was very possible, I had donned shorts.  We placed cameras, money and clothing in a dry bag.  Nearly to the beach, we were upset and needed to jump into the water and drag the dinghy up the beach.  Fortunately, we had left the outboard back at the mother ship.  Since they were already wet, Sally and Amy decided to go swimming right then and there, while I strolled down the beach to select a palapa restaurant.  I chose the third one because there were two young gringo guys sitting there and I thought I might get some information about the wonders of Chamela from them.  After ordering a beer, fish tacos and guacamole, I started a conversation.  They told me they lived on the other side of the bay and that they were doing marine research.  They noted that they were actually being paid to live in such a warm and beautiful place.  Sensing a slight imperfection of accent in their otherwise perfect American, I asked where they were from.  Norway, it turns out, and there are fifty Norwegians in all living in the bay and working on the research project.  I then asked them the question that I now ask all young Norwegians that I meet: "Do you like pickled herring?"

A bit of background.  As far as I know, all Scandinavian Americans love pickled herring, and until 20 years ago, I had assumed that their love for this delicacy was genetic.  In 1991, we spent a week at Disney World, in Florida, including a day at the Epcot Center, which includes a number of internationally themed restaurants surrounding a lagoon.  One of these is a Norwegian restaurant, where I had dined on two previous occasions.  The waiters and waitresses in this restaurant are young Norwegians, boys and girls who have been awarded the privilege of a year in Florida.  There must have been two dozen varieties of pickled herring.  Those with simple wine, vinegar, onion and juniper berries, those with cream sauce, mustard sauce and so on.  I asked the blond and bronzed surfer who was our waiter which of the pickled herrings he would recommend.  The answer was a shock.  "If I were to eat pickled herring, I would choose that one.  But I do not eat pickled herring."  Two years ago a family of relatives from Norway visited us in Seattle.  I asked the same question.  Not only did they not eat pickled herring, they did not like seafood.

So the answer to the question posed to two young Norwegians on the beach at Bahia de Chamela was not a complete surprise.  Only a reinforcement of my growing recognition that Norway is no longer what it once was.  One of the two, he who is blond and bronzed, had already mentioned that he had lived a year in Florida.  As I related the Epcot Center saga, he got a strange look on his face, and said he had worked a year in that same restaurant.  No, not the same guy.  This fellow would be too young.  Just the same race.  What a pity.  Pickled Herring is almost as good as fresh yellow tail with mustard sauce and it keeps a good deal longer.

On our way back out to the boat, we found it completely impossible to get through the surf with oars and three people in the dinghy.  Three times, we would almost clear a breaking swell, get turned around, and surf back towards the beach, finally being overturned.   In fact, a lot of fun!   Finally, Sally and Amy got back into the water, pushed the dinghy through the surf break and swam back to the boat, while I rowed her back.

Tonight Sally is preparing the pasta she had planned to serve in Yelapa, but could not because of the erratic rolling at anchor in ocean swells.

Finally a taste of the irony of the modern wired world.  During the ten days we spent in the modern marina at La Cruz on Banderas Bay the WIFI was pathetic.  So bad, that one of my posts to this blog had to be made via marine single side-band radio.  In this remote bay, we are enjoying an open WIFI access point with much better response and through-put than the marina was able to provide.

Seafood Lovers Paradise

Loren, Sally, Alan and Amy

Pacific Mexico is not just sailing and sun bathing.  These pleasures are equaled or even eclipsed by the enjoyment of seafood.  Great mariscos everywhere.  I have been feasting on camarones (shrimp), atun (tuna), dorado (mahi-mahi) and marlyn (marlin).  Amy's uncle Loren, who was here for nearly a week, ate camarones at every meal.

Moon Over La Cruz

Between Meals, Alan and Loren Check Out the Music Scene

At Frascati's, an Italian-Mexican restaurant in La Cruz, I had the best tuna that I have ever eaten.  They serve it seared or pink.  In Seattle, if you order your tuna any way other than seared the waiter will instantly relegate you to the ranks of the hopelessly uncool.  Of course, preparing seared tuna is easy and safe.  You hardly cook it at all and thus avoid the risk of overcooking, which turns the best ahi instantly into something that could have come from a can.  You avoid embarrassment by intimidating the customer into eating the fish raw.  Frascati's chef is a real man (or woman, haven't actually met the individual) -- a risk taker par excellence.  He (she) cooks the fish just the right amount.  Perfection!

Also at Frascati's I had a great pizza fruti di mare.  It was ten times better than the same dish at La Fontanelle on the banks of Lac de Genval near Brussels, which I ordered many times when we lived there and which had previously been the yardstick by which I measured seafood pizzas.

But you don't have to go Italian to get great seafood meals.  It seems that all of the traditional Mexican presentations such as burritos, quesadillas, tacos, as well as regional specialties such as papas (baked potato) in La Paz, can be the basis of a meal of seafood.  The mariscos are invariably fresh and delicious. 

In Search of Seafood

Of course, you can also buy seafood at the market and cook it the way you like it.  The prices here are outstanding.  Freshly caught tuna goes for 110 pesos (less than ten dollars) per kilogram (2.2 pounds).  Mahi-mahi goes for 90 pesos per kilo.  Yes, this is a seafood lover's paradise.

Puerto Vallarta

Amy is Thrilled to be in La Cruz at Last

We finally made it to Puerto Vallarta, or almost, since we are not in PV proper, but at La Cruz, which is just a bit to the north. We arrived just after sunup, after a crossing from Bahia los Frailes which took three nights and nearly three days. The first day and night were very rough, but things got better after that. After the winds got back to normal and the seas moderated, there were many hours of beautiful sailing. We made it in time to get Andy Morse onto his scheduled flight to Hawaii. Our daughter Amy will be with us for a few more days. Thanks to both for their company and help.

We are moored in the pretentiously named Marina Riviera Nayarit de La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, an impressive new marina with lots of nice facilities and services. Unfortunately, reliable Internet wireless service is not one of them. In my experience, most web sites for marinas in Mexico are absolutely pathetic. They typically attempt to integrate fancy audio and video, but end up with something that does not work and is just annoying. The Marina Riviera (etc.) site is an exception and therefore I thought they might be able to provide usable WIFI.
Wishful thinking. This blog entry will have to be posted via HF radio and Sailmail.
We intend to be here at least a week, to rest and to make a few repairs and improvements before heading south to Barra de Navidad.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Rangval Redux

Andy on Watch

Amy on Watch

I write this from Norwegian Steam as she approaches the midpoint of our 282 nautical mile voyage from Los Frailes to Puerto Vallarta. We started yesterday morning after having spent three nights anchored in Frailes, hoping to wait out a strong norther, not daring even to go ashore for fear that the 2 hp. engine on our dinghy might not be powerful enough. As we started out, Sally was at the helm, sailing at two to three knots without any sails up. I hooked our Monitor wind vane self steering to the tiller. It is customary to personify a self-steering gear, as if it were a human helmsman. I chose to call ours Rangval, to honor my paternal grandfather, who was big, strong, helpful and reliable, all traits of a good helmsman. After fifteen minutes we hoisted our new storm jib, the smallest headsail on the boat, which is of very heavy traditional constuction, sewn by Schattauer Sails. Out speed jumped to five and half knots. It was clear the norther was not over. After another eight hours we hoisted the staysail alone on the headstay. Still no mainsail. The wind was coming over the port quarter and that was also the dominant direction of the seas. We spent a very uncomfortable day and night, rolling and yawing, sometimes violently, in the quartering seas.
Today both wind and waves have diminished. Four foot waves have replaced eight footers. Now we are running wing-on-wing at six knots, with full main and the yankee poled out to windward. The motion is much more comfortable. Finally Amy may be able to get some sleep. Rangval is steering masterfully.
Our current position is 21 degrees 55.4 minutes north, 107 degrees 43.4 minutes west.

Sunrise on the Ocean

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Beach Club at the Bay of Dreams

Since we left La Paz to sail to Puerto Vallarta, NS has been crewed by Sally, Alan, Amy and Andy Morse (a friend of Jennifer and Andrew). Last night we all dined at the 1535 Restaurant, located in the Beach Club at the Bay of Dreams. Quite a good restaurant and not expensive.

Los Muertos or The Bay of Dreams

The Beach Club is at the east end of a long sand beach in Ensenada de los Muertos (23 degrees 59.2 minutes north, 109 degrees 49.6 minutes west). At the other end of the beach is a real estate development. A name that translates to "Cove of the Dead" was not was deemed satisfactory for the location of a sparkling new gringo retirement community and golf course, and thus was born the "Bay of Dreams." I have read, by the way, that in this case "muertos" does not refer to dead people, but instead to large abandoned anchors from a time when the bay was a cargo port. Years ago, dead anchors and chains were probably a hazard to small craft anchoring in the cove, but they have long since silted over and Muertos is a favorite stop for yachts traveling this stretch of coast.

Los Muertos or The Bay of Dreams

Tonight we are anchored in Bahia Los Frailes (23 degrees 22.9 minutes north, 109 degrees 25.2 minutes west), a favorite anchorage for yachts awaiting favorable weather for either a passage across to the Sea of Cortez to mainland Mexico or for a trip north against the prevailing winds. It was a fast run down from Los Muertos with 25 knot winds and six to eight foot seas. Amy and Andy proved the value of young reflexes for steering a boat in these conditions. When we made the final turn into the bay, what had been a following wind was suddenly on the beam and we were a bit over-powered, but it was only a quarter of a mile from there into the bay which provides protection from the waves if not from the wind. We are now well anchored.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

NS Meets El Coromuel

Having brushed twice with the Norther, NS has now met El Coromuel, another of the distinctive weather patterns of the Sea of Cortez. We are currently en route from Playa Bonanza to Ensenada de los Muertos (23 degrees 59.2 minutes north, 109 degrees 49.6 minutes west) on our way to Puerto Vallarta, which we hope to reach on Saturday or Sunday. When we went to bed last night, anchored at Playa Bonanza, the wind was from the north and we were well protected. About midnight, we were awakened by waves pitching the boat. This was El Corumuel's way of saying hello.

The coromuel is a southwesterly wind that blows out of La Paz, arising during the night and usually disappearing at dawn. Its force is derived from the evening temperature difference between the colder outside of Baja and the warmer Sea of Cortez. The direction is the result of a low spot in the mountainous backbone of Baja, which is situated to the southwest of La Paz. It is a nuisance to cruisers anchored in the bays of Espiritu Santo, which are well protected from northerly winds, but are open to the southwest.

The name coromuel comes with some fascinating folklore. In the days when much of Europe's trade with Asia was conducted by Spanish Galleons, English pirates would prey on the these ships laden with treasure. The Galleons would return via the westerly, sailing to the Pacific Northwest, then work their way down the coast, with a destination of Manzanillo. Along the way they would sometimes enter the Sea of Cortez to provision in the bays of Espiritu Santo. If a coromuel would arise, they would be trapped, because they were not designed to sail to windward, and were easy prey for pirates. Some believe that Cromwell was the name of one of these pirates. Others believe that the name was adopted because it had belonged to an English leader who was extraordinary in his hatred for Catholics.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Norther Takes a One Day Holiday

We returned to Marina de la Paz Wednesday night about an hour after sunset.  Having battled strong winds with gale force gusts for two days, everyone on NS was extremely happy to be back safe on dry land and to dine again at the estimable Caffe Milano.  We had anchored through a norther in Caleta Partida and then enjoyed a beautiful day at Los Islotes and a peaceful evening in Ensenada el Cardonal.  I assumed there would be at least a few days lull between northers.  How was I to know?

Cruisers in the Sea of Cortez depend for weather forecasts on a hand-full of amateur weather men.  Their forecasts are based on information supplied by the large computer models run by governments and universities, but the final products are volunteer efforts.  Unfortunately, the volunteers I had chosen to depend on had decided to take the days around New Year's as vacation.  They are volunteers, so that is certainly their prerogative, but the norther took only one day for its holiday.  I also attempted to get some of the other forecasts that are available over hf radio, but the reception in Ensenada el Cardonal was poor and I could not decipher them through the static.  In spite of a lack of good forecasts, I decided to sail to Isla San Francisco (24 degrees 49.3 minutes north, 110 degrees 34.3 minutes west), a distance of 20 nautical miles.  This turned out to be a big mistake.

It was a beat to windward all the way, against 25 knots of wind in the most confused and choppy seas I have ever experienced.  At first I thought it was going to be like a summer day in Lake Superior or a summer afternoon in the Straits of Juan de Fuca.  But this turned out to be a lot worse.  The waves were vicious.  We arrived at "the hook" of Isla San Francisco just before dusk and anchored about a hundred yards off the beach in 20 feet of water.  I put out a lot of chain (five to  one scope) and once again our Rocna 25 (kilogram) anchor did not budge, although the gusts during the night were fearsome.

The next morning, I finally got a weather report and it showed just the opposite of what we wanted to hear.  The strong northerlies were to persist for days.  I said that if we were able to move the boat against the wind the day before, we could certainly make good progress in the other direction and that the trip would be fast and much easier.  There were dissenters in the crew and how could I blame them?  After all, I had painted a rosy picture the day before.  The idea that we might be able to make it all the way back to La Paz with its warm showers and great restaurants finally swayed opinion in favor of departure.

It was quite a ride.  Early on, we were pulled along by the staysail alone.  Later the wind abated a bit and shifted forward, so we raised the main and cruised along on a beam reach.  Almost to the La Paz channel, the wind died so much that we could no longer make six knots, so we turned on the engine.  We threaded the channel and found Marina de la Paz with out much difficulty.  Thank you Norwegian Steam.

Los Islotes

Jennifer Prepares for Scuba

The norther having run its course, we left Caleta Partida this morning for a one and a half hour run to Los Islotes (24 degrees 35.8 minutes north, 110 degrees 24.2 minutes west), a pair of rocks just north of Isla Partida which provide habitat for a large number of seals and birds. Los Islotes is a very popular destination for snorklers who come to swim with the seals. The location is unsuitable for overnight anchorage or, indeed, anchorage in anything but mild weather. We anchored in 65' of water, about a hundred yards out from a string of mooring buoys used by the pangas which ferry eco-tourists between La Paz and their seal swimming adventures. These rocks are quite an amazing sight. Their tops are painted white by accumulated bird droppings. The base of the larger rock is the home of hundreds of seals. Between the mild stench of bird guano, the cacophony of seal chatter, and striking scenery, a visit to Los Islotes provides intense stimulation for the senses.

Amy, Jon and Andrew

Andrew and Jennifer started out by donning their scuba equipment, rowing the dinghy in toward the larger islet, mooring it to one of the buoys, then disappearing under water for what what seemed to Jennifer's parents a very long time. They returned to report that scuba was definitely unnecessary for this particular adventure, and soon they returned with Jon and Amy, all equipped for snorkel. Jon described the experience as exciting, Jennifer as awesome.

A Pelican Hunts while Sea Lions Play

Tonight we are anchored in Ensenada el Cardonal (24 degrees 33.1 minutes north, 110 degrees 23.2 minutes west), one of the bays on the east side of Isla Partida. I am blogging, the kids are looking at videos they took while underwater, and Sally is cooking another gourmet meal.

Since leaving La Paz, she has prepared risotto, tuna fish avec noodles, gnocchi and tortilla soup. Tonight it will linguini with a mushroom, wine and garlic sauce. Yum!
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Norther

Jennifer and Jon Share a Laugh at Caleta Partida

A Fishing Camp at Caleta Partida

Norwegian Steam left La Paz on an island cruise Thursday, December 30, as previously noted. Because brisk winds were predicted from the west, we chose to anchor at Playa Bonaza (24 degrees 27.195 minutes North, 110 degrees 18.386 minutes West), with its long and almost deserted sand beach, because of its location on the east side of Espiritu Santo. There were 20 knot winds with higher gusts, but they were coming right off the beach, creating only tiny waves. By the second evening, however, the wind had shifted to the north and swells came rolling around Punta Lobos, prompting several crew to begin taking seasickness medicine. With the wind veering to the north northwest, it was clear that Bonanza would no longer be viable, so on New Years Day we sailed around the south end of the island, then beat into the teeth of the norther to reach shelter in Caleta Partida, where we are now anchored at 24 degrees 31.962 minutes north, 110 degrees 22.836 minutes west. What a sail it was! Close hauled in six foot seas wearing life-vests and harnesses. Not so different from a summer afternoon crossing of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, but with entirely different scenery and much warmer.

Alan Chases his Sandal

Amy and Andrew

Last night's mooring was totally different from the uncrowded anchorage of the previous two nights. By my count there are thirteen sailboats in here seeking the same shelter from the norther that we are, anchored a bit too close for comfort, subjected to violent gusts of wind every minute or so. After observing at least two boats drag anchor, we mounted an anchor watch throughout the night, each taking an hour and a half on deck, dressed in the warmest clothes that we had brought to this semi-tropical land, to be sure a safe distance was maintained between NS and the nearest boats and to be sure that NS herself was not dragging. Cruising a 35 foot sailboat with a crew of six has its inconveniences, but it is also great to have that many hands when driving to weather against a norther or when dividing up the effort of an anchor watch. On balance, we are definitely having fun.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com