Sunday, January 2, 2011

Norther

Jennifer and Jon Share a Laugh at Caleta Partida
A Fishing Camp at Caleta Partida
Norwegian Steam left La Paz on an island cruise Thursday, December 30, as previously noted. Because brisk winds were predicted from the west, we chose to anchor at Playa Bonaza (24 degrees 27.195 minutes North, 110 degrees 18.386 minutes West), with its long and almost deserted sand beach, because of its location on the east side of Espiritu Santo. There were 20 knot winds with higher gusts, but they were coming right off the beach, creating only tiny waves. By the second evening, however, the wind had shifted to the north and swells came rolling around Punta Lobos, prompting several crew to begin taking seasickness medicine. With the wind veering to the north northwest, it was clear that Bonanza would no longer be viable, so on New Years Day we sailed around the south end of the island, then beat into the teeth of the norther to reach shelter in Caleta Partida, where we are now anchored at 24 degrees 31.962 minutes north, 110 degrees 22.836 minutes west. What a sail it was! Close hauled in six foot seas wearing life-vests and harnesses. Not so different from a summer afternoon crossing of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, but with entirely different scenery and much warmer.

Alan Chases his Sandal
Amy and Andrew
Last night's mooring was totally different from the uncrowded anchorage of the previous two nights. By my count there are thirteen sailboats in here seeking the same shelter from the norther that we are, anchored a bit too close for comfort, subjected to violent gusts of wind every minute or so. After observing at least two boats drag anchor, we mounted an anchor watch throughout the night, each taking an hour and a half on deck, dressed in the warmest clothes that we had brought to this semi-tropical land, to be sure a safe distance was maintained between NS and the nearest boats and to be sure that NS herself was not dragging. Cruising a 35 foot sailboat with a crew of six has its inconveniences, but it is also great to have that many hands when driving to weather against a norther or when dividing up the effort of an anchor watch. On balance, we are definitely having fun.
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