NS Meets El Coromuel

Having brushed twice with the Norther, NS has now met El Coromuel, another of the distinctive weather patterns of the Sea of Cortez. We are currently en route from Playa Bonanza to Ensenada de los Muertos (23 degrees 59.2 minutes north, 109 degrees 49.6 minutes west) on our way to Puerto Vallarta, which we hope to reach on Saturday or Sunday. When we went to bed last night, anchored at Playa Bonanza, the wind was from the north and we were well protected. About midnight, we were awakened by waves pitching the boat. This was El Corumuel's way of saying hello.

The coromuel is a southwesterly wind that blows out of La Paz, arising during the night and usually disappearing at dawn. Its force is derived from the evening temperature difference between the colder outside of Baja and the warmer Sea of Cortez. The direction is the result of a low spot in the mountainous backbone of Baja, which is situated to the southwest of La Paz. It is a nuisance to cruisers anchored in the bays of Espiritu Santo, which are well protected from northerly winds, but are open to the southwest.

The name coromuel comes with some fascinating folklore. In the days when much of Europe's trade with Asia was conducted by Spanish Galleons, English pirates would prey on the these ships laden with treasure. The Galleons would return via the westerly, sailing to the Pacific Northwest, then work their way down the coast, with a destination of Manzanillo. Along the way they would sometimes enter the Sea of Cortez to provision in the bays of Espiritu Santo. If a coromuel would arise, they would be trapped, because they were not designed to sail to windward, and were easy prey for pirates. Some believe that Cromwell was the name of one of these pirates. Others believe that the name was adopted because it had belonged to an English leader who was extraordinary in his hatred for Catholics.

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Norther Takes a One Day Holiday

We returned to Marina de la Paz Wednesday night about an hour after sunset.  Having battled strong winds with gale force gusts for two days, everyone on NS was extremely happy to be back safe on dry land and to dine again at the estimable Caffe Milano.  We had anchored through a norther in Caleta Partida and then enjoyed a beautiful day at Los Islotes and a peaceful evening in Ensenada el Cardonal.  I assumed there would be at least a few days lull between northers.  How was I to know?

Cruisers in the Sea of Cortez depend for weather forecasts on a hand-full of amateur weather men.  Their forecasts are based on information supplied by the large computer models run by governments and universities, but the final products are volunteer efforts.  Unfortunately, the volunteers I had chosen to depend on had decided to take the days around New Year's as vacation.  They are volunteers, so that is certainly their prerogative, but the norther took only one day for its holiday.  I also attempted to get some of the other forecasts that are available over hf radio, but the reception in Ensenada el Cardonal was poor and I could not decipher them through the static.  In spite of a lack of good forecasts, I decided to sail to Isla San Francisco (24 degrees 49.3 minutes north, 110 degrees 34.3 minutes west), a distance of 20 nautical miles.  This turned out to be a big mistake.

It was a beat to windward all the way, against 25 knots of wind in the most confused and choppy seas I have ever experienced.  At first I thought it was going to be like a summer day in Lake Superior or a summer afternoon in the Straits of Juan de Fuca.  But this turned out to be a lot worse.  The waves were vicious.  We arrived at "the hook" of Isla San Francisco just before dusk and anchored about a hundred yards off the beach in 20 feet of water.  I put out a lot of chain (five to  one scope) and once again our Rocna 25 (kilogram) anchor did not budge, although the gusts during the night were fearsome.

The next morning, I finally got a weather report and it showed just the opposite of what we wanted to hear.  The strong northerlies were to persist for days.  I said that if we were able to move the boat against the wind the day before, we could certainly make good progress in the other direction and that the trip would be fast and much easier.  There were dissenters in the crew and how could I blame them?  After all, I had painted a rosy picture the day before.  The idea that we might be able to make it all the way back to La Paz with its warm showers and great restaurants finally swayed opinion in favor of departure.

It was quite a ride.  Early on, we were pulled along by the staysail alone.  Later the wind abated a bit and shifted forward, so we raised the main and cruised along on a beam reach.  Almost to the La Paz channel, the wind died so much that we could no longer make six knots, so we turned on the engine.  We threaded the channel and found Marina de la Paz with out much difficulty.  Thank you Norwegian Steam.

Los Islotes

Jennifer Prepares for Scuba

The norther having run its course, we left Caleta Partida this morning for a one and a half hour run to Los Islotes (24 degrees 35.8 minutes north, 110 degrees 24.2 minutes west), a pair of rocks just north of Isla Partida which provide habitat for a large number of seals and birds. Los Islotes is a very popular destination for snorklers who come to swim with the seals. The location is unsuitable for overnight anchorage or, indeed, anchorage in anything but mild weather. We anchored in 65' of water, about a hundred yards out from a string of mooring buoys used by the pangas which ferry eco-tourists between La Paz and their seal swimming adventures. These rocks are quite an amazing sight. Their tops are painted white by accumulated bird droppings. The base of the larger rock is the home of hundreds of seals. Between the mild stench of bird guano, the cacophony of seal chatter, and striking scenery, a visit to Los Islotes provides intense stimulation for the senses.

Amy, Jon and Andrew

Andrew and Jennifer started out by donning their scuba equipment, rowing the dinghy in toward the larger islet, mooring it to one of the buoys, then disappearing under water for what what seemed to Jennifer's parents a very long time. They returned to report that scuba was definitely unnecessary for this particular adventure, and soon they returned with Jon and Amy, all equipped for snorkel. Jon described the experience as exciting, Jennifer as awesome.

A Pelican Hunts while Sea Lions Play

Tonight we are anchored in Ensenada el Cardonal (24 degrees 33.1 minutes north, 110 degrees 23.2 minutes west), one of the bays on the east side of Isla Partida. I am blogging, the kids are looking at videos they took while underwater, and Sally is cooking another gourmet meal.

Since leaving La Paz, she has prepared risotto, tuna fish avec noodles, gnocchi and tortilla soup. Tonight it will linguini with a mushroom, wine and garlic sauce. Yum!
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Norther

Jennifer and Jon Share a Laugh at Caleta Partida

A Fishing Camp at Caleta Partida

Norwegian Steam left La Paz on an island cruise Thursday, December 30, as previously noted. Because brisk winds were predicted from the west, we chose to anchor at Playa Bonaza (24 degrees 27.195 minutes North, 110 degrees 18.386 minutes West), with its long and almost deserted sand beach, because of its location on the east side of Espiritu Santo. There were 20 knot winds with higher gusts, but they were coming right off the beach, creating only tiny waves. By the second evening, however, the wind had shifted to the north and swells came rolling around Punta Lobos, prompting several crew to begin taking seasickness medicine. With the wind veering to the north northwest, it was clear that Bonanza would no longer be viable, so on New Years Day we sailed around the south end of the island, then beat into the teeth of the norther to reach shelter in Caleta Partida, where we are now anchored at 24 degrees 31.962 minutes north, 110 degrees 22.836 minutes west. What a sail it was! Close hauled in six foot seas wearing life-vests and harnesses. Not so different from a summer afternoon crossing of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, but with entirely different scenery and much warmer.

Alan Chases his Sandal

Amy and Andrew

Last night's mooring was totally different from the uncrowded anchorage of the previous two nights. By my count there are thirteen sailboats in here seeking the same shelter from the norther that we are, anchored a bit too close for comfort, subjected to violent gusts of wind every minute or so. After observing at least two boats drag anchor, we mounted an anchor watch throughout the night, each taking an hour and a half on deck, dressed in the warmest clothes that we had brought to this semi-tropical land, to be sure a safe distance was maintained between NS and the nearest boats and to be sure that NS herself was not dragging. Cruising a 35 foot sailboat with a crew of six has its inconveniences, but it is also great to have that many hands when driving to weather against a norther or when dividing up the effort of an anchor watch. On balance, we are definitely having fun.
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Playa Bonanza

This is a great evening for Norwegian Steam. Cruising in the Sea of Cortez, at last! We are anchored a hundred yards from the long sand beach of Playa Bonanza, located on the east side of the island of Espiritu Santo, which is a natural marine park. Even though the wind is from the west, it is quite breezy out here. As soon as we got anchored, an hour before sunset, Jennifer and Amy rowed the dinghy ashore. I was worried that they might not get back, with the wind so strong, but they made it. Best rowing workout Jennifer has had since here crew days! The moon has not yet arisen. The sky is full of stars. Sally is preparing a risotto with Andrew's assistance. We have opened up some wine. Is this not paradise?

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Welcoming Committee

Amy and Jennifer Await NS

Most of the Westhagen clan have now gathered in La Paz to welcome Norwegian Steam.   Peter, Suzanna, Avery and Stella are not here because Suzanna is expecting a baby in February.  Eric is absent because he needs to care for a bunch of cats.  Even NS has, at last, a plausible excuse for her delay.

Pescador and Amy Await NS

In her perch atop the cargo ship Beluga Elegance, NS has been battling gale force winds all the way down the coast.  Although the BE has not shown up on marinetraffic.com in the last 31 hours,  she was halfway between SF and LA when her position was last recorded and, by my reckoning, should reach Ensenada tomorrow, given that the storms are predicted to abate this evening.  With only five boats to drop off or pick up, the BE could be on her way again in as little as 10 hours.  From there to La Paz, she should have a tail wind, allowing her finally to achieve her potential of 350 nautical miles per day, which could bring her into La Paz on Boxing Day.

Jon, Amy and Jennifer Await on the Malecon

Visiting Lisa and Ron near Todos Santos

Jon, Jennifer, Sally, Amy, Alan and Andrew Await NS on the Beach near Todos Santos

I love La Paz.  Wonderful town, great people, fine food, perfect weather.  A few in our party would like the evenings to be slightly warmer, but I do not concur.  In my opinion, 80 degree days and 60 degree nights are ideal.  We are staying in the very friendly and well run Posada LunaSol, a stone's throw from Marina de la Paz.  They have been extremely obliging in accommodating our many and frequent changes in schedule, but will have to turn us out on December 27, because of prior reservations.  This one last time, Yacht Path had better deliver, or we could be out on the street with no place to sleep.

NS Rides South

Bruce, Robert and Alan Push Off for Victoria

Wednesday evening, December 15, Bruce Vik and I moored Norwegian Steam against the hull of the heavy-lift cargo ship, Beluga Elegance, docked at Ogden Point in the harbor of Victoria BC.  There was little wind that night and the loading area was well protected, so we did not wait to see NS actually be hoisted onto the deck of the ship.  After all the delays and false promises, perhaps I should not have trusted the assurances of the Yacht Path crew, but by now I believe that I would have heard if something had subsequently gone amiss.

Bruce, I and Robert Rackl had delivered NS to Victoria on the weekend of December 4th and 5th.  On Saturday, we motored to Port Townsend in light winds, spending the night in the Point Hudson Marina.  We motored half way across the East Entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca the next day, but then the wind picked up.  We had a great sail into Victoria, changing down to reefed main and staysail in 25 knot of winds.  Robert, who was keen to test his resistance to sea sickness, was not sick at all, and exercised a steady hand on the helm while Bruce and I were reefing the main.

The "Old Salts" are Eager

We sailed to Victoria that weekend because the Yacht Path schedule was showing loading to start on the following Saturday, while weather reports showed really nasty weather during the intervening week days.  We took advantage of a weather window, and I am glad we did.  But true to form, Yacht Path delayed loading until Wednesday.  By my count, that was the 11th slippage of schedule.

Leif Eriksson Does Not Like the Look of Those Clouds

After loading 21 yachts, the BE was supposed to have headed for Ensenada yesterday evening.  Instead she showed up this morning in Vancouver.  This worried me a lot, and not just because it represented an additional delay.  Positioned as it is near the mouth of the Fraser river and its valley that cuts through the mountains and often channels frigid air from the interior, the port of Vancouver poses a serious risk of freezing temperatures to any ship moored there and certainly to any yachts stowed on deck.  I had taken the precaution to place anti-freeze in NS's water maker, but her engine and pressure water systems would be at risk.

Fortunately, BE was not in Vancouver for very long.  She was probably taking on fuel at better prices than she could buy it in Victoria.  She is now headed out the Strait of Juan de Fuca and lists Ensenada as her destination in her AIS report.

If there are no additional unplanned stops and nothing goes wrong, NS will be delivered to La Paz on Christmas Eve, according to the latest schedule.   Although I hope that the "splash down" will occur in daylight hours, I am now imagining that it will occur at the stroke of midnight.